Have you ever held a piece of jewelry and wondered exactly how it was made? How does a skilled artisan add all the fine details to a ring making it so beautiful? Let’s explore some ring manufacturing techniques below.

MODEL MAKING

The first step in manufacturing jewelry is creating the model. This is typically done by either using a computer or by hand. The model will later be used as an exact replica of what the finished jewelry will look like.

Hand Design

When ring designs are created by hand, skilled jewelers compose different metals together, or carve a model out of wax. Hand fabrication using wax first, allows the jeweler to carve out the design in detail. This method is also used to fabricate fitted or curved wedding bands.

Computer (CAD) Design

Computer aided design or CAD is using a computer program to create a digital model. The designer can add fine details that would be difficult to do in a hand-carved wax model. These programs are used to create 3D images of the ring design in more intricate detail.

CAM Design

After designing a ring using a CAD program, you can then begin the model-making process. Computer aided manufacturing or CAM is a way to physically hold a design in scale. Many manufacturers will grow a plastic model of the ring for a final check before it goes into model making and casting.

MOLD MAKING AND CASTING

After making a model, a mold is created. The mold is then used to duplicate the same ring model to multiple pieces in any chosen metal. Hot, pressurised wax is injected into the mold and is then removed once it cools, and serves as a casting model. Waxes are placed on a wax tree with other models that are being casted in the same metal and color. The wax tree is placed in a form and has plaster poured into it. The form is heated overnight causing the wax to melt away. Melting the wax leaves the ring designs throughout the form, which is filled with liquid metal finalising the ring casting.

JEWELRY MAKING

When a design is requested, various metals are ordered based on the requirements of the style. The material is compiled together and adjusted to the appropriate size. The metal is either layered or soldered to weld it for the particular center stone and finger sizing. Platinum is only welded by laser because it requires higher temperatures. In preparation for stone setting, the rings are polished thoroughly. Gems are then selected based on the style requirements. The gemstone sizing has .01mm accuracy. The gems are double-checked for the proper color, clarity, and cut. Bearings are cut into the metal using special diamond-shaped drill heads. The stones are set into their bearings and are held into place by the surrounding metal.

POLISHING AND FINISHING

Once the ring is fully pieced together, it must be polished. Every area of the ring is made accessible by uniquely shaped and sized polishing brushes and buffs. The last step is referred to as lapping. Lapping guarantees the ring has a slick, premium finish. White gold isn’t naturally white, so it also needs to go through rhodium coating: also known as plating.